The Camino and the area
Porto de Bois is a small hamlet in the parish of O Mato, Palas de Rei, in the A Ulloa district of Galicia. The Camino Francés passes 160 metres from our door, on the stretch where the province of Lugo gives way to A Coruña. Here is what surrounds this stage: what you'll see on foot and what's worth a short detour.
Order of places on the Camino Francés, east to west.
History
In 1371, in the meadows of Porto de Bois, the last battle of the first Fernandine War was fought: the Galician nobles loyal to Peter I and allied with Portugal, led by Fernando de Castro, were defeated by the troops of Henry II. Our apartments take their names from that story.
Built around 1375 by Gonzalo Ozores de Ulloa on a rock above the river Pambre, a few kilometres south of the Camino. A square plan, a central keep and four corner towers. It was one of the few major Galician fortresses to survive the Irmandiño revolt (1467–1469). Today it belongs to the Xunta de Galicia, which restored it.
The 12th-century church of San Salvador, a landmark of Galician Romanesque with early Gothic touches. It was linked to the Order of Santiago, whose knights were buried here, and its 14th- and 15th-century murals are among the best preserved in Galicia. Protected since 1931, it lies a little off the Camino, near Palas de Rei.
An Iron Age hillfort (5th century BC to 1st century AD) covering more than five hectares with up to six enclosures, right by the Camino between Portomarín and Palas de Rei. Many pilgrims pass it the day before reaching Porto de Bois.
Further along
Leaving Porto de Bois, the Camino climbs towards O Coto, already in the province of A Coruña, and carries on through meadows and stone hamlets to Melide.
A medieval hamlet with the 13th-century church of Santa María and a 14th-century bridge over the río Seco. Legend says a spring that glowed at night appeared by the church; an image of the Virgin found there kept returning to the water until an artist carved it into the doorway's tympanum. A pilgrim hospital stood here as early as the 12th century.
Its four-arched medieval bridge over the river Furelos is one of the best-known sights of this stretch, just before Melide.
A great crossroads: in the Plaza del Convento, pilgrims on the Camino Francés meet those arriving on the Camino Primitivo. The town keeps the Romanesque church of Santa María (12th century) and a 14th-century stone cross considered the oldest in Galicia.
Local flavours
This is inland country, a land of fairs and markets, and you can taste it.
Melide is famous for its pulpo á feira: boiled octopus served with olive oil, salt and paprika. For many pilgrims it's an essential stop.
A soft cow's-milk cheese with Protected Designation of Origin. Palas de Rei and Melide are both within its production area.
Melide's best-known sweet: a ring-shaped pastry made with wheat flour, butter, egg and sugar. The town's baking tradition began in family kitchens and is kept alive today by family-run bakeries.
Curiosities
Tradition explains the name Palas de Rei as «Pallatium Regis», the palace of the Visigothic king Witiza, said to have lived here in the early 8th century.
For Melide, scholars suggest the most likely origin is the Latin name Mellitus, «sweet as honey». A happy coincidence for the town of melindres.
For pilgrims
Four little stone houses 160 metres from the Camino, each with its own kitchen, plus breakfast and laundry.
